Piz Bernina 4049m Spallagrat (Normal route)

On the easternmost four-thousander of the Alps
Season
June - September
Group days
Tues - Wed / Sat - Sun
Duration
2 days
Difficulty
Intermediate
Group prices
945 CHF
per Participant
(At least 2 to a maximum of 2 participants)
Private prices
1550 CHF
1 Participant
1750 CHF
2 Participants
(Maximum number of participants per guide: 2)

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Inquiry / reservation
Included services
  • Mountain guides
  • Lift ticket
  • Overnight stay in a shared room
  • Dinner and Breakfast
  • Tea for the day
Extra cost
  • Drinks during dinner
Additional services (bookable)

    Piz Bernina 4049m Spallagrat (Normal route)

    Day 1
    Diavolezza - Fortezza - Rifugio Marco e Rosa

    We take the first gondola up to the Diavolezza. Here we marvel for the first time at the mighty panorama of the Bernina range. We follow the hiking path up to the moraine and over it down to the Persgletscher. Under the spell of the mighty north wall pillars of Piz Palü, we cross the Persgletscher until we reach Gemsfreiheit. Soon we also reach the Fortezza ridge. In an easy climb up to II degrees we climb over the rocks and soon stand on the glacier plateau of Bellavista. At first slightly ascending and always looking at the Piz Bernina, we gradually approach our daily goal. We finally reach the Marco e Rosa hut after about five to six hours. Here we recover from the tour and prepare for tomorrow's summit day.

    3597 m 6 Stunden 1200 hm 500 hm
    Day 2
    Piz Bernina

    Behind the Rifugio Marco e Rosa we climb over the glacier and a steep slope up to the first rocks of the Spallagrat. We climb the II. and III. degree before we stand on the Firngrat. Via the pre-summit "La Spalla" we soon reach the highest peak of the Eastern Alps - the Piz Bernina.
    The descent leads us back over the Spallagrat to the Marco e Rosa hut, where we take another short break. Then we take the way back and follow our tracks from the previous day over the Bellavista terrace, the Fortezza and the Persgletscher. Shortly before the Diavolezza with the wonderful sun terrace we have a last ascent ahead of us.

    4049 m 9 Stunden 950 hm 1500 hm
    The marked routes are only approximate information for the visualization of our offers. The routes must not be interpreted as GPS tracks. Detailed tour planning is essential. We reserve the right to make route changes.
    Skills
    Physical condition for 9 hours tour, no fear of heights and sure-footed, previous knowledge with crampons and ice axes, previous knowledge in climbing
    Equipment
    • Crampons
    • Ice Axe
    • Climbing Harness
    • Helmet
    • Headlamp

    Mietpreisliste Go Vertical

    Gerne reservieren wir dir auf Wunsch das gewünschte Mietmaterial.

    Meeting point
    8:10am at the bottom station Diavolezza
    Getting there
    Parking:
    Free parking is available at the Diavolezza valley station.
    Public transport:
    2 min walk from Bernina Diavolezza train station to Diavolezza bottom station.
    Accomodation / comfort
    Dormitory in the Marco e Rosa hut. Sleeping bag obligatory.
    Good to know

    Clothes and Equipment

    Our product recommendations for this tour from our partner shop Go Vertical.
    Nepal Trek Evo GTX '20

    490.00 CHF inkl. MwSt.

    Nepal Trek Evo Woman GTX '19

    490.00 CHF inkl. MwSt.

    Boreo Helm

    69.00 CHF inkl. MwSt.

    Tödi 2.0 Pant M '18

    280.00 CHF inkl. MwSt.

    Show all product recommendations for this tour.

    Piz Bernina 4049m Spallagrat (Normal route)

    Impressions

    History

    Sewing machines, sports shops or even a railway line. They all bear his name. But only he owns the crown: the Piz Bernina (4'049 m above sea level) or also called "King of the Mountains", is the only four-thousander of the Eastern Alps and thus the Mount Everest of the Engadin. Inpenetrable. That's how it was for a long time. Until 1850, when first-time climber Johann Wilhelm Fortunat Coaz dared to try - a magnificent feat. He wrote in his diary at that time: "At 6:00 pm we were standing on the peak on pure ground not touched by any human being, on the highest point of the canton." We were seized with earnest feelings scanned over the earth to the wide Horizon and thousands and thousands of mountain peaks around us. Diving in rocky outcrops of shining glacial seas, astonished, we looked over this magnificent mountain world. "

    First ascent of Piz Bernina
    Coaz and his assistants started at 6 o'clock in the morning at the Bernina Wirtshaus at 2'050 m above sea level. The morning was nice and cold, the temperature was minus 2 degrees. The three pioneers were equipped with studded shoes, a hemp rope, headscarves against the sun's rays and long sticks to probe crevasses. An overnight stay in the open air was impossible, too much preparation would have been necessary. Over the Morteratsch glacier they reached its feared "labyrinth" of crevasses, which they crossed with great difficulty. Because the glacier was alive: Impressive cracking accompanied the formation of new crevasses, pieces of ice constantly collapsed beside the three adventurers.

    Summit sprint
    With courage and skill the three worked their way up the south side to the shoulder, where they took the only break for food. Here they also left all their luggage behind in order to climb as easily as possible over the ridge to the glaciated summit. At 6 p.m. the three of them had reached their destination and had thus mastered 2,300 metres of altitude difference and 24 kilometres. Summit! Coaz spontaneously christened the still nameless top "Piz Bernina". A cold wind blew at the top. The boots and the wet trousers were frozen, the thermometer showed minus temperatures. So the three first climbers were forced to descent. Thanks to the full moon, the three saw enough to overcome the dreaded labyrinth and find the right, crevice-free way into the valley. At 2 o'clock in the morning, 20 hours after departure, they returned safe and sound to the Gasthaus Bernina. Today, the Coazhütte in the Bernina region is named after him in honour of the first ascender.
    Reference: pontresina.ch

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