Aus aktuellem Anlass werden wir bis zum 30 April keine Touren anbieten können. Wir sind uns bewusst, dass frische Luft und die schöne Bergwelt eine gute Medizin ist. Jedoch müssen wir auch berücksichtigen, dass wir beim Sport in den Bergen ein gewisses Verletzungsrisiko haben. Da die medizinische Versorgung zur Zeit am Anschlag läuft, versuchen wir dies nicht noch mehr herauszufordern. Für Buchungen für Touren & Kurse ab 1. Mai 2020 und Informationen stehen wir euch weiterhin zur Verfügung. Am besten per E-Mail an info@bergsteiger-pontresina.ch.

Wir wünschen euch allen gute Gesundheit und würden uns freuen, euch nach dieser Zeit wieder begrüssen zu dürfen.

Euer Team der Bergsteigerschule Pontresina


Piz Bernina 4049m Spallagrat (Normal)

On the easternmost four-thousander of the Alps
Season
June - September
Group days
Tues - Wed / Sat - Sun
Duration
2 days
Difficulty
Intermediate
Group prices
945 CHF
per Participant
(At least 2 to a maximum of 2 participants)
Private prices
1550 CHF
1 Participant
1750 CHF
2 Participants
(Maximum number of participants per guide: 2)

Book now

Inquiry / reservation
Included services
  • Mountain Guide
  • cable car ticket Diavolezza
  • Overnight stay in a shared room
  • Dinner and Breakfast
  • Tea for the day
Extra cost
  • Drinks during dinner
Additional services (bookable)

    Piz Bernina 4049m Spallagrat (Normal)

    Day 1
    Diavolezza - Fortezza - Rifugio Marco e Rosa

    We take the first lift up to Diavolezza. Here we marvel for the first time at the huge panorama of the Bernina range. We follow the hiking trail up to the moraine and over it down to the Pers glacier. Under the spell of the mighty north wall pillars of Piz Palü we cross the Pers glacier to Gemsfreiheit. Soon we also reach the Fortezza ridge. In an easy climb up to II degrees we climb over the rocks and soon stand on the glacier plateau of Bellavista. At first slightly ascending and always looking at the Piz Bernina, we get closer and closer to our daily goal. We finally reach the Marco e Rosa hut after about five to six hours. Here we recover from the tour and prepare for tomorrow's summit day.

    3597 m 6 Stunden 1200 hm 500 hm
    Day 2
    Piz Bernina

    Behind the Rifugio Marco e Rosa we climb over the glacier and a steep glacial slope up to the first rocks of the Spallagrat. Beautiful climbing in the II. and III. degrees follows now, before we stand on a narrow firn ridge. Via the pre-summit "La Spalla" we soon reach the highest peak of the Eastern Alps - the Piz Bernina.
    The descent leads us back over the Spallagrat to the Marco e Rosa hut, where we take another short break. Then we start the way back and follow our tracks from the previous day over the Bellavista terrace, the Fortezza and the Persgletscher. Shortly before the Diavolezza with the wonderful sun terrace we have a last ascent ahead of us.

    4049 m 9 Stunden 950 hm 1500 hm
    The marked routes are only approximate information for the visualization of our offers. The routes must not be interpreted as GPS tracks. Detailed tour planning is essential. We reserve the right to make route changes.
    Skills
    Physical condition for 9 hours tour, no fear of heights and sure-footedness, previous knowledge of crampons and ice axes, previous knowledge of climbing (3rd grade)
    Equipment
    • Crampons
    • Ice Axe
    • Climbing Harness
    • Helmet
    • Headlamp

    Mietpreisliste Go Vertical

    Gerne reservieren wir dir auf Wunsch das gewünschte Mietmaterial.

    Meeting point
    8:10am bottom station Diavolezza
    Getting there
    Parking:
    Free parking is available at the Diavolezza bottom station.
    Public transport:
    2 min walk from Bernina Diavolezza station to Diavolezza bottom station.
    Accomodation / comfort
    Dormitory in the Marco e Rosa hut. Hut sleeping sack mandatory.
    Good to know

    Clothes and Equipment

    Our product recommendations for this tour from our partner shop Go Vertical.
    Nepal Trek Evo GTX '20

    490.00 CHF inkl. MwSt.

    Nepal Trek Evo Woman GTX '19

    490.00 CHF inkl. MwSt.

    Boreo Helm

    69.00 CHF inkl. MwSt.

    Show all product recommendations for this tour.

    Piz Bernina 4049m Spallagrat (Normal)

    Impressions

    History

    Sewing machines, sports shops or even a railway line. They all carry his name. But the crown belongs only to him: The Piz Bernina (4'049 m above sea level) or also called " king of the mountains ", is the only four-thousander of the Eastern Alps and thus the Mount Everest of the Engadin. Unreachable. That's the way it's been for a long time. Until 1850, when the first climber Johann Wilhelm Fortunat Coaz dared an attempt - an extraordinary achievement. At that time he wrote in his diary: "At 6.00 in the evening we stood on the longed-for majestic peak on pure ground which had not been walked on by any human being, on the highest point of the canton. Serious emotions touched us. The greedy eye roamed over the earth to the wide horizon and thousands and thousands of mountain peaks lay around us, rocky from shining glacial seas emerging. Astonished and anxious, we looked over this magnificent mountain world."

    First ascent of Piz Bernina
    Coaz and his assistants started at 6 o'clock in the morning at the Bernina Inn at 2'050 m above sea level. The morning was nice and cold, the temperature was minus 2 degrees. The three pioneers were equipped with nailed shoes, a hemp rope, headscarves against the sun's rays and long poles to sound out crevasses. An overnight stay in the open air was impossible, too much preparation would have been necessary. Over the Morteratsch glacier they reached its feared "labyrinth" called crevice-rich part, which they crossed under great difficulties. Because the glacier was alive: The impressive sound of cracking accompanied the formation of new crevasses, pieces of ice constantly collapsed next to the three adventurers.

    Sprint to the Summit
    With courage and skill the three worked their way up the south side to the armpit, where they took the only break for refreshments. Here they also left all their luggage behind in order to climb as easily as possible over the ridge to the icy summit. At 6 p.m. the three had reached the finish line and had thus mastered 2,300 metres of altitude difference and 24 kilometres. Summit! Coaz spontaneously dubbed the still nameless peak "Piz Bernina". There was a cold wind blowing on the top. The boots and the wet trousers were frozen, the thermometer showed minus temperatures. So the three first climbers were forced to descend. Thanks to the full moon, the three saw enough to overcome the dreaded labyrinth and find the right, crevice-free way into the valley. At 2 o'clock in the morning, 20 hours after departure, they returned safe and sound to the Bernina Inn. Today, the Coaz hut in the Bernina region is named after him in honour of the first ascender.
    Reference: pontresina.ch

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