We meet in Pontresina at the office of the Bergsteigerschule. Here you also have the possibility to rent/buy the necessary equipment. The afternoon is dedicated to the training in the Morteratsch climbing garden. Here we find ideal terrain to teach you the basics for climbing at full speed. The focus today is on: climbing and safety techniques, knots, abseiling. At the end of the day we enjoy the lovely evening in the Hotel Morteratsch.
Today we hike up to the Boval hut and on the program as well is the easy climbing tour on the Corn da Boval. This rock peak is directly behind the Bovalhütte and offers us ideal terrain for a training tour in the rock. The main training focuses today are: introduction to short rope, stand constructions and placement of belay point in the rock.
Today we leave the rocks and head into the ice. We carry out the ice training in a practice-oriented way on the Morteratsch glacier. Our training focus will be: Walking on ropes, crampons, pickaxes and safety equipment and a pulley block. At the end of the day we go up by gondola to the Mountain Hotel Diavolezza.
After these three intensive training days, the highlight follows. We plan to cross all three Palü summits from west to east. Early in the morning we start in the headlamp light on the Diavolezza and first descend on the Persgletscher. Over this we reach the Gemsfreiheit and the foot of the Fortezzagrat. We climb over these rocks easily. We continue in the snow to Fuorcla Bellavista. A beautiful block ridge leads us from here up to the Piz Spinas 3898m. We reach the broad snow crest of the main summit only a little later and now meet the mountaineers who come up via the normal route. We continue our way over the narrow ridge to the east summit and further down to the shoulder. Now we are back on the glacier and are looking for our way through the crevasses back to Diavolezza.
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